Happy New Years! Youth Rules, Body Disposal, Southern Hemisphere Action and Hopes for 2006
Happy New Year!
Another year and more climbing challenges await us all. While it is popular to make new year resolutions, I'll refrain and take refuge in the fact that 2006 will bring many opportunities for all of us to achieve difficult and rewarding experiences.
Youth Rules!
Two young climbers are making some news these days. First Climbing.com notes that 12 year-old Adam Ondra redpointed Alien Carnage (8c+/5.14c) at Castillon, France, according to www.nice-climb.com. Then the climbing accomplishments of 8 year-old Aidian Gold were widely reported over the New Years break. It seems that young Aidian has set off early to conquer the word's highest mountains along with his Dad. He has already climbed 10,400-foot Haustock and 13,400-foot Monch in the Alps, and 17,200-foot Awi Peak near Everest and went on to made it to Everest base camp. Island peak at 20,300 feet was his latest conquest. The reports spoke if him as "...a veteran mountaineer." It reminded me that a study was done on the imapact of Ed Viesturs' time above 8000m on the size of his brain. The results shown on a documentary showed some slight shrinkage. I wonder what this high altitude experiences does for a 8 year-old boy?
Body Disposal
Another popular report was about the burial of Muhammad Abdullah, an Malaysian who summited Everest in 1997. The issue was whether his burial was to be according to Muslim or Islam customs. A court finally ruled and he was buried in Islam style. This made me think of my first 8000m climb on Cho Oyu. I went with International Mountain Guides. Eric Simonson required every climber to sign a body disposal form". The choices were: 1) bury on the mountain, 2) cremate in Katmandu, or 3) return to your home. By the way, choices 2 and 3 are conditional upon being able to get your body off the mountain - highly unlikely in the vast majority of the cases. While Mr. Adbullah did not die on a mountain, unfortunately this year climbers will die pursuing their dreams. The IMG form was an excellent way of making sure everyone involved knew what they were getting into.
Southern Hemisphere and Himalayan Action
All the usual suspects are attacking Aconcagua this season. Dispatches are in full bloom from AAI and Adventure Consultants plus some others. Nothing of major importance to report other than the early heavy snows that closed the Vacus River approach have let up and it appears to be business as usual. AAI reports a January 2 summit. Also Kilimanjaro has the normal activity. Over in the Himalaya, Christophe Lafaille reports on his winter Makalu solo climb that he spent a night at 6900 m and has a high point of 7400 m on the 8481 m Hill.
Hopes for 2006
Ok, maybe a few resolutions for the new year. No deaths on Everest this Spring. A significant new route is opened on an 8000 mountain. Pakistan recovers from the continuing earthquake tragedy. And on a personal note, our Broad Peak - K2 expedition runs smoothly with everyone doing their best and retuning home friends!
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