So what do you do after you climb all 14 8,000m mountains - without supplemental oxygen? If you are Ed Viesturs, you go get a job! Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. and Ed Viesturs announced via the RMI newsletter that Ed has "signed on to guide exclusively with us" and "...Our agreement sets the stage for the direction Ed and RMI are planning to take over the next decade, especially as we begin operations in the Himalaya in 2007." Sounds like Ed is returning to the Big Hills after all!

RMI is best known for guiding thousands of aspiring mountaineers up Mt. Rainier each year. But last year the National Park Service authorized more companies to guide the most popular routes like the Disappointment Cleaver thus ending the monopoly RMI has enjoyed since 1968. Lou Whittaker, a legend on his own, co-founded the company and has 250 summits of Rainier plus some macho climbing experiences on Everest, K2 and elsewhere in the world. RMI's guide list reads like a Who's Who of guides and climbers. It seems that most US guides worked for them at one time in their career.

Big Ed is best know for his 8,000 meter quest and least known for his cameo role in the horrible movie "Vertical Limit". He has been climbing the world's tallest mountains without using supplemental oxygen since his first summit of Kanchenjunga in 1989. His critics say he always took the easy "yak routes" but his admirers point to his safety record, summit success and his ability to leverage his love of mountains into a well-paid career. His endorsements and sponsorships include Mountain Hardwear, Rolex, Jansport and others.

So the industry has a new 500lb gorilla. The New RMI will make a big splash in the international climbing scene. They already guide to Mexico, Ecuador, Elbrus, Aconcagua, Vinson and Kilimanjaro. I predict they will add an extensive Himalayan schedule including Cho Oyu, Ama Dablam, Shishapangma and of course Everest. Plus I bet they will have a 7 Summits program. Also I predict they will offer top shelf programs that cater to high-end clients. Considering they "touch" over 5000 climbers a year with their Rainier programs and now have Ed's name, they will have no problem getting business!

All this means that the big high-end US operators like Alpine Ascents, International Mountain Guides will have a new competition. Likewise for the international operators like Adventure Consultants and Jagged Globe. Will prices go down? I would not be on it. In fact I think the recent price increases will hold for the big name Hills like Everest. Adventure COnsultants announced their 2007 Everest top-shelf trip will go from $55k to $60K. Himalayan Experience announced their North Side climbed went from $35K to $40K.

The good news here is that the safety and professionalism of high-altitude climbing should increase with the reputations of Whittaker and Viesturs now on the line. Companies like IMG, AAI and AC have stellar safety reputations but there are many shoddy operators out there. So welcome Ed to RMI and welcome to the New RMI as you expand. Climb on!